adventures south of the evil empire

photos from the back of a motorbike

2009-10-31T19:58:00.000-07:00

It is hard to fully communicate the extent to which motorbikes play a role in Vietnam. At any given moment, the putt-putting of little engines (and high-pitched horns to match) outside the internet cafe where I sit is a cacophony. For every car owned in Vietnam, there must be at least 100 motorbikes. And the thing about a nation en-route on the motorbike, is that the rules of the road are different when everyone is not lumbering along 6 lane roads, encased in a bubble of steel which has the power to protect against quite a lot, but more likely can kill. The motorbike is more agile, and slower, and much less threatening. It is also driven by, as far as I can tell, everyone over the age of 15 who can borrow the family bike. There are no lanes, and if there are, they matter very little. You can drive the pace of a bicycle if you'd like, or you can try--probably unsuccessfully--to get all the way up to 50 km per hour (31 mph). So people just do whatever they want. Is there a swarming flow of bikes moving towards you, generally on the right side of the street? do you need to head the other direction down the road? Just go. They'll part for you. Really. Luckily, no one is very worried about going very fast and, unlike drivers in the States, they are hyper-sensitive to the possibility that a bicycle or motorbike might pull out in front of them at any moment.

Well, besides the seemingly insane courage (or simply insanity) that it takes to drive in cities, the motorbike's versatility is also remarkable. It is most people's only transportation, and in fact, since there are so many on the road, it is really frustrating to drive in a car. People carry crops to market, take their children to school, transport their elderly grandparents to the clinic, and rent out their services to carry those without bikes around town on mototaxis. Ryan and I have come to love them almost as much as the Vietnamese, if much more cautiously. Here are some photos taken from the back of one of our motorbikes.

p.s. don't worry, we stay out of the cities and drive very slowly, which, luckily, no one seems to mind.

Here I go. In Quy Nhon, on the central coast of Vietnam, the beach in town was a little dirty, due to the fisherman living and working there, but 20 km outside of town was a beautiful beach, Bai Bau, where we were the only swimmers in the water.

Ryan has perfect confidence in my driving.
These are all taken outside of town, in the verdant hills surrounding the little port city.
The local gas station, perhaps there's a little mark-up, but it's so much more convenient and doesn't she look like a nice attendant?

Hanoi, Vietnam

2009-10-20T04:45:00.000-07:00

"Who loves children more than Uncle Ho?" Nobody. That's who.
Communism lives, my freinds. Propoganda posters line the city streets of Vietnam and loudspeakers still make frequent announcements praising the glory of the great red leaders. (Okay, so it's in Vietnamese and we can't understand it. But, as I've always said, you don't need to understand the language to know that midday messages from loud speakers in a communist country are probably some form of brainwash.)

Beth and Jackie enjoying a traditional Vietnamese dessert.

The Temple of Literature, the first university in Vietnam.

Bethie's telling a story over our usual morning cup of strong, Vietnamese coffee and fruit juice in a French-influenced cafe. I don't know exactly what she's talking about, but it's probably about food.

Hanoi, Vietnam

2009-10-20T04:35:00.000-07:00

Lots of photos of Bethie and Jackie, a Minnesotan we taught with in Korea. I wasn't allowed to be in any photos in Hanoi. Or talk. I was, though, able to carry their bags and pay for most meals. Lucky me.

Beth in Bangkok

2009-10-20T04:30:00.000-07:00

Bangkok, Thailand

2009-10-20T04:15:00.001-07:00

Beth loves food. Our days usually go something like this. We wake up and eat breakfast. Then Beth talks about how good breakfast was, what was in it, how it could be better, and how she can't wait to make some of this stuff on her own. We eat lunch. Then Beth talks about how good lunch was, what was in it, how it could be better, and how she can't wait to make some of this stuff on her own. We eat dinner......

Ryan and some bells.
(Sometimes there really isn't anything interesting to say. I just wanted to post some photos).

A temple in the middle of the city. Cool.

A temple in the middle of the city with us standing in front of it. Also cool.

We saw this big old lizard crawl out of the lake in a park. He was probably about 3 feet long or so, but I didn't get too good a look at it because I was hiding behind Beth.

A few last Korea photos

2009-10-20T04:00:00.000-07:00

Once the 6th graders figured out that "Beth and Ryan Teacher is loving," we were the most popular people at school (for the first time ever).

Beth's Scholar class. Funny kids, especially the boys Nick and Tony.

Our boss, Mr. Park. He took us out to lunch our last day of work to say thanks for a good year. We never learned his first name.

The Year 1 Kindergartners: Beth and Ryan Teacher's classes. Racheal and Hunter in Ryan's class (yes, only 2 kids) and Mandy, Claire, Sara, Ray, and Remy in Beth's.

Ryan Teacher's Advanced class. 6th graders. 5 girls and Daniel. For the month or so leading up to our leaving, the kids tried to keep a little going away party a secret. They wanted to discuss it during class, so I gave them about 3 minutes a day (1 per hour of class) to speak in Korean and discuss it. They thought they were so sly and that I had no idea what was going on. At what age do you realize that you can't trick your teacher?

We're in Bangkok!

2009-10-03T19:54:00.000-07:00

This place is too fast. Too much hustle and bustle. Everybody is out to make a Baht. You can't trust many people, especially if they're friendly. That's tough. For instance, the tuk tuk driver (a motorcycle with a two-seater behind it) who asked us the ubiquitous, "Where you go?" and then gave us the wrong directions. The very very friendly "security guard" who showed us around a bit and then took us to a great place to get a "free" map of the city which had his name on it (did the tourist office belong to him? did he work there? was he just getting commission). The reasons for this culture are complex but it doesn't make you trust the Bangkok natives anymore. This is an especially strange and extreme transition from Korea, where everyone was extremely trustworthy and their more guilty ulterior motive was their desire to learn English. Very few prices were inflated and Koreans despise tipping and don't pay sales tax; they always turn on the taxi meter and they will chase you down the street to return a dropped wallet.

On the very, very bright side, Bangkok has amazing, and amazingly cheap, street food! It's delcious, it's diverse, and it's everywhere! And the fruit! Oh, the fruit is amazing! I can't get enough. Whole pineapples for $.80! Steaming bowls of delicious noodle soup or plates of green curry with eggplant and tofu for $1.50. It is heavenly.

Photos coming soon!

Jeju Photos

2009-09-27T00:48:00.000-07:00

Jungmoon Beach

Hallasan

Sunrise Peak

Jeongbang Waterfall

Cheonjiyeon Waterfall

grilling on the lost beach

cliff top restaurant

Food, Glorious Food

2009-09-20T08:05:00.000-07:00

This is one of our new favorite dishes: Huedapbap. This is a variation on another favorite: Bibimbap, which is made with rice, fresh vegetables, a fried egg and chilie sauce. This one is made with hue, or raw fish, which is again mixed with rice, a lot of fresh lettuce, sesame leaves and other veggies, and a little chilie sauce. We just happened upon this restaurant outside the exit of the Bupyeong Market subway stop in Incheon and it was a great discovery. Do you see all the other amazing things that came with our meal? Fish soup, fried fish, a cabbage salad with raw fish, a quiche-type eggy thing, gimbap roll, and of course various kimchi. All for 6,000 won, or $5!

This was at a simple outdoor restaurant on the cliffs above Jungmoon beach on Jejudo. Not only was the setting amazing, but unlike any restaurant in a remarkable setting in the States, the food was still affordable. Ryan and I got hue (raw fish) and fried fish. Both delicious and served with great sides, as usual (I will miss them so much!) This photo shows you the carcass of the poor fish after we devoured it.

This is actually just one of the side dishes at the pheasant meal we ate on Jejudo, but I wanted to show you another one of the "best things about Korean food" (I hope I'm not wearing that out too much; it's all true). This is pajeon, or Korean pancake, or pizza, or whatever you want to interpret it as. It is made with various flours and egg, I believe, and then differnt veggies or fish or occassionally meat are added and it's all friend up. They are delicious and cheap and often served as a free side dish or are ordered a lot when Koreans go out drinking.

This is one of my favorite restaurants in all of Korea! And it's right next to my work! What luck. This place only have about 8 dishes on its menu--three different mandus (dumplings or potstickers), udong (or udon in Japan), and mumil (fresh buckwheat noodles served in various broths to which you add scallions, shaved radish, vinegar, and spicy mustard). Everything is handmade and fresh to order and you leave feeling like a million dollars.

More Korean Couples

2009-09-20T07:55:00.000-07:00

Just some quick photo uploads.
Notice the matching camoflage pants--a subtle, yet strong statement. There is nothing subtle about Ryan and Tony, though.

Why are mothers important?

2009-08-25T05:24:00.000-07:00

A few words from the 6th graders:

"Mothers are people who made us. Therefore, they are important. They spend money on us. They have to feed us so they buy some food. Also, we have to wear clothes so they buy us some clothes. And, we need money because we have to eat or buy something so mothers give us money. Mothers help with all things. They help with studying. They help some problems and they give money to lots of academies. Also, when we have some problems in society, they give some advises and when mothers help us the problem will be solve."

"There are many things what we can do with mothers. First of all, we can talk about one's daily work. Me and my mother can exercise together.
First of all, my mom and I can talk about eachother's daily work. I can talk to her about my school, friends, or academy. My mom likes to play ping-pong and she talks about funny stories about what happened in there. Often, we talk about my father, and my younger brother. That is one of the big funs to me and my mother.
Also, mother and her offsprings could exercise together. For example, my family loves exercise. My mom likes ping-pong, my father likes cycling, my brother likes ice-hockey, and I like skipping rope. My brother and my father likes to play together, and my mom and I like to play together. This is a good thing, too.
In conclusion, there are many things that we can do with mother. We can have conversation about each one's daily work. In addition to this, we can exercise together."

"Moms make us and devote her life to bring up us and looking after us. I think moms are important to us because of that reason.
I like to shopping with my mother and talking about friends and drama. My mom and I like to watch some drama. Some time my mom change to coach and we have to study. End of the vacation, Korea has a lot of homework in vacation (I don't know American's vacation), and she made a homework very well. I think her ability is good at art.
I guess Ryan Teacher's mom and first I think she will similar with Ryan Teacher. Blonde hairs and easy to be red face. Good eyes so no glasses and he told she is 47 years old. I want to see her."

"Ryan Teacher said that tomorrow is his mother's birthday, so we talked about 'mother' and 'birthday.'
I think mothers, who made us, is very important because, mothers and their children are similar because all people have half of their mothers gene (It is not romantic, but it is truth!!) Also, I want to go on a trip with my mom because we can talk for a long time, eat delicious food. Therefore if I earn a lot of money, I will go on a long trip with my mother except my father and brother.
I guesse Ryan Teacher's mom likes short people because her son is a little bit short! So I think she will love short people because she loves Ryan Teacher's everything. Also, I think she is short and has brown hair.
In conclusion, I think Ryan Teacher really loves his mother because he promised that give these topics and send our writting to his mom."

I couldn't have said it better. Happy Birthday Mama!

Fun with Language

2009-08-22T21:55:00.001-07:00

On Jeju-do, we had another bit of a mixup due to the whole language thing. Jeju is well known throughout Korea for a few local delicacacies: tangerines, chocolate, black pork, and pheasant. It was a little early for tangerines, and the chocolate was good, but, well, let's not kid ourselves: Korea is not really known for it's chocolate. The first day, we did the black pork, and it was quite delicious. It's similar to sam-gap-sal, which is basically thick pieces of really fatty bacon. You cook it at your table, cut it into small peices, and eat it with garlic, red pepper paste, a peice of marinated turnip, green onions and kimchi, wrapped in a sesame or lettuce leaf. We were able to find a resturant fairly easily since they have pictures of big black pigs on their store fronts.

Pheasant, on the other hand, is a nicer, more expensive meal, and as a result, was a little more difficult to find. After an afternoon of wandering around Jeju's World Cup stadium and Jungnum Beach, we decided to search it out. We found many resturaunts that served duck, and each time we went into them to ask where we could find pheasant they tried to convince us that pheasant and duck were the same thing. So after about an hour and five or six attempts at duck resturaunts, we decided to just get into a cab and ask the driver to take us to a pheasant resturaunt.

So here'e where things got a little confusing. I had looked up the word in Korean a few hours earlier, "kkweong", but, unfortunately, I misremembered it and asked the taxi driver to take us to a "ddang" resturaunt. "Ddang," in Korean, means ground, earth, or real estate. So he was a bit confused at first. Then, I thought I was just mispronouncing it, so I asked for a "ddeong" resturant. This word officially doesn't mean anything in Korean, but it closely resembles "dung," which, I think, is pretty universal in definition. To make things worse, Jackie, an outgoing lady from Minnesota, did a little chicken dance, which should have worked, except she also put her hand over her butt like a bird tail. Along with the word "ddeong," I think this confused the driver even more. Well, after about 5 minutes of laughing and confusion, we finally figured things out and made it to a "kkweong" resturant, which, ironically, ended up being located about 3 blocks from our hotel.

The pheasant was simple delicious. We had it barbequed (kkweong gui), cut into thin slices and cooked in soup (kkweong shabu shabu), in meatballs (can't remember the name), and the most interesting, kkweong hwei, or raw pheasant. In The States I don't think I'd ever eat raw poultry, but when in Rome....

The raw, thinly sliced kkweong, which you mix into boiling soup right at your table. Called shabu shabu.

Jackie and Tony with a plate of kkweong hwei, or raw pheasant. And they're doing the chicken-pheasant dance.

Some funny pics...

2009-08-06T18:41:00.000-07:00

A promotional ad for Jeju-Do, an island off the south coast. You can't argue with this ladies.

Our favorite convinience store, Family Mart (or is it Famiy Mart?).

Baby buns are cute in every culture.

This is Jackie and Nicole riding the subway home on a Saturday morning after a long Friday night. We didn't know the Korean lady on the left, but I don't think any of them mind.

At least Jackie and Nicole made it further than this guy.

Do you remember that Tom Cruise thing? It seems they just don't get it.

Simply refreshing.

Scootahdulnun jejodoeh tago itnuhn!!! (Riding scooters on Jeju!)

2009-08-06T17:46:00.000-07:00

We recently visited the "Hawaii of Korea", Jeju-Do. Great time. Lots of relaxing, beach, food, and friends. And scooters. We rented 50cc scooters from Mr. Lee, a 30 something motorcycle mechanic (who works out a lot!) in Jeju City. Over the next couple of days, we cruised the East coast of Jeju at about 30 mph. The sea breathed from our left and Jeju's fruits and forests grew to our right. The roads were empty and windy, and the times were the best I've had.
Goggles. Badass.

Pink scooter. Not badass.

Too cute.

Some love photos...

2009-08-06T17:28:00.000-07:00

Our friends Jessie and Alison just got married (Congrats!). Here's a few of our own love photos...

From the Eastern Coast of Jeju-Do.

A waterfall in Seogwipo.

Sunset at Manlipo Beach.

Happy 70th Gramps

2009-08-05T18:07:00.000-07:00

"Happy Birthday Grandpa Chuck!!!"
We love you and we miss you grandpa. Have fun with the rest of the family.
By the way, the kids don't think 70 is that old. Most of them say they have grandparents in their 90's. Wow!

Clams, Muscles, and Sea Snails

2009-07-27T05:52:00.000-07:00

Mmmmmmmm.....Fresh, grilled-at-your-table shellfish. Delicious!

Here's Tony from Minnesota (bald by choice) and Chris from North Carolina (not bald by choice) about to dig into some grilled sea snail. Not delicious, but a fun time!

Some of you may shirk from these sea creatures, but you shouldn't! As we have probably already made clear, Koreans excel at barbequing. While we might think it unsafe to carry hot coals through a raucous and crowded restaurant and place them in the middle of your table with a small grille separating the guest from the flame. Well, without the pesky liability suits that every American business owner has to avoid, Koreans are free to invent some of the best restaurant experiences in the world.* Plus, you have fewer cooks because your clients are cooking for themselves! Brilliant.

Our newest experience with grilling was in a small beach town called Manlipo (more to follow in another post, hopefully). Koreans love seafood and a big reason they go to the beach is to enjoy the fresh fish dishes that are famous in each region. Ryan and I were prepared to spend a little money eating some yummy seafood, but made the mistake of going by the mouth-watering pictures that each restaurant had displayed. That crab soup looked really good, believe you me, but after being turned away by one restaurant, we sat down at a nearly-empty restaurant (which, by the way, is against our general eating principles, but sometimes you have to bend the rules) that said it would serve us a crab soup that looked really tasty in the picture. But, since this is Korea, we were immediately befriended by the family sitting next to us, which was made up of a Korean born woman, who spoke impeccable English, her Canadian husband, their two bilingual children, and her Korean mother, who spoke no English, but made up for it with her passionate desire to communicate (which incidentily increased as she finished off 2 bottles of soju by herself). They scoffed at our order and immediately called back the waitress to order us what they had had that afternooon for lunch: grilled shellfish. Important note on ordering fresh fish in the future: order whatever looks biggest and yummiest in the tanks outside (if there are tanks, which any respectable fish restaurant in Korea will have). Duh! How did we not think of that. We are but children bumbling our way around the world and relying on the kindness (or pity of others) to save us stumbling off some precipice.

So, it turns out, crab is out of season, and they restaurant really should have said that instead of just trying to get us in the door, but luckily we were saved and the place served us one of the best meals we've had here. They brought us a bunch of delicious sides, as always, including hard boiled quail eggs and pajeon (Korean veggie pancake), then a towering plate of raw clams, a huge muscle, opened and cleaned, and a few giant sea snails. These were all thrown onto the grill until they each popped open when they were ready, cooked to perfection in their own juices. We dipped the soft, delicious mean in soy and wasabi. To be honest, we weren't crazy about the snails, which were hard to extract, overcooked, and were sort of tough and chewy, but the rest was amazing. Why don't we cook like this back home? Ryan and I are making blue prints for a proper grilling table for our someday-imaginery-house back home, so you'll all get to experience it someday.

*this statement is based on my limited experience with world cuisine

Culture Shock, Beach Edition

2009-07-08T22:06:00.000-07:00

So, even after 9 months, Ryan and I still get a shock ocassionally. Most recently, Koreans reinforced something that we already knew about them, but still came as a funny surprise. Last weekend we headed to a new stretch of beach in the Taean National Beach front at Manlipo. Heading straight down to the beach from the tiny bus station (a seemingly empty parking lot with a barely-noticeable shack posing as a ticket office), we encountered first a number of EZ-Up tents housing numerous carnival games: shoot the bottles and win alcohol; pop the balloons with a dart and win a stuffed animal. Then one lonely amusement park ride (the oscillating pirate ship, which, after my experiences at Songdo Resort, I was smart enough to avoid), and then the beach, and hundreds upon hundreds of people packed into 200 yards of beach. Packed. Most of them were hiding under umbrellas (again, they aren't sun worshippers like me) and the others were wading into the water and playing with children or building sand castles. You know, normal(by my standards) beach stuff. See:

The strange thing was that 100 yards in either direction, there were no beach revellers. It was deserted. Only a few straggling, and obviously deviant Koreans were wandering outside the "zone." And, of course, us:

Korea is a country of 48 million people, a third larger than our home state, and it's half the size of Minnesota. Try to imagine the population density. They actually have some open space too. Not much, but some. So, I knew that Koreans were accustomed to crowds and congestion, but who knew they would seek it out when they had another option?

Kindy Field Trip

2009-06-12T07:58:00.000-07:00

Once a year, our tiny Korean worker bees get a field trip to a sad little amusement park, Songdo Resort, which consists of a very sad reptile (and other bizarre mostly-albino animals)house, a murky pond, and some very scary rides for children. It was fun. It was fun for me, anyway, other than a little nausea (I'm really getting old, I used to love amusement park rides).

We arrived at the park around 9 in the morning, when it was completely deserted. I don't know if you've ever seen a deserted amusement park, but it is an eery and depressing site. Luckily, our small charges noticed very little of their surroundings in their euphoric enjoyment of being released from school for one day with the added benefit of their strange waeguk (foreign) teachers at their disposal.

Here's a picture of the whole gang, minus Mr. Park and the Korean helpers. You may notice a lot of hats and visors. These children came ready to battle the sun in many forms, as any good Korean does. Unfortunately, most of the students had ditched their protective gear by this time. Oscar, fourth from the right on the top level of children, sadly is not wearing the HUGE visor in the exact style of the Korean grandmothers who cover every piece of exposed skin when they leave the house.

Ethan and Remy playing with Beth Teacher's glasses.

Here he is again. Remy is the most joyous child I've ever met. He is sincerely confused by any negative emotion expressed by the other students. He is also a fabulous dancer.

Claire has also discovered what you can do with these chips. Less fearsome than Remy, she plays the always-calm to his constantly-exuberant.

So, this picture is sideways (which I am too computer illiterate to fix now that I've uploaded these photos and don't have the original on this internet cafe computer), but if you just tilt your head a bit to the side, you'll notice the really cute picnic lunches that all the students' mothers prepared for them. Since it was a special occassion, there were a lot of chips and cookies and fruit drinks, but the substance was very healthy: gimbap (korean sushi roll with no raw fish, but usually canned tuna), and cherry tomatoes. This is Mandy, my smallest child (really still a baby, weighing just 15 kilos, or 33 lbs at 6 years old). Eating with them was really the most fun part of the whole day since, 1)Koreans have to share food with you (no matter how strange a stranger you are) and 2)their picnics are so different than ours and they ALL had been sent with almost identical homemade lunches which they all ate with little chopsticks that they carry in a little plastic container with them to school everyday.

sorry we haven't posted, we've been busy on the islands

2009-06-09T06:09:00.000-07:00

Yes, it has been almost 3 months since we wrote a post. The only excuse I will give is that not having a computer makes this whole process a lot more laborious. But, in case anyone even checks this anymore, and so that Ryan and I actually remember some of this somewhat bizarre year, I'm goin' make this happen.

A lot has actually happened since the nasty weather went away and I felt like my life started once again. It was the longest winter of my life, but now I know I am strong enough to survive (with perhaps a few mental scars). Right when Ryan and I were starting to feel like we'd really had our fill of Korea and winter, and big cities and no good cheese, etc., etc., we got a visit from Ma and Pa Spitler.As it turns out, a studio/one room apartment isn't very spacious for 4 people, but we made the best of it. And in fact, they did splendidly well making friends with Koreans. Everytime they went anywhere without us, they would bring home a Korean! We did the best we could showing them our favorite parts of Korea--namely: food. Kam Cha Tang, Galbi, Shabu Shabu, and of course kimchi. The trip definitely renewed some of our interest in Korea and satiated our need for home (and See's candy).

So now, Ryan and I are soaking up the sun as if we haven't seen it in many many months--as long as it isn't raining. This apparently isn't the wet season, but it's raining about 3 days a week (can you imagine the wet season?!). We went to a small island called Deokjeok-do just a 45 minute ferry ride from Incheon 2 weeks ago. It was wonderful! It was like we weren't in Korea! It smelled good, it was quiet, it was so green and every little house had a big garden outside where a little old Korean woman was squatting to weed or harvest. And then there was the beach! Oh, it was good. It struck me so clearly as I sat it the morning light pretending to read a book in the back of our little guesthouse (but really just trying to fix the perfect moment in my mind), while I watched 2 little birds playing in the springtime-green leaves above my head, that my mental well-being is dependent on nature. I almost would have told Ryan to head back to Incheon without me because I was going to find some Korean grandma that would take my free labor in her garden, if we didn't have plans that required some money-making. I need fresh air. Sun-light. Water--in a river, an ocean, or at least a swimming pool. I'm much like a plant.

This place makes me so happy!! Do you see the green? Everywhere. Ryan took this picture in front of a dilapidated old Korean farm house covered in ivy. We thought, "This is what Korea might look like (except for the dilapidated part, hopefully) if the colossal powers of the world hadn't blown it to bits and then built it up again much uglier."

Ryan's saying: "Oh my god, why did I put myself in this situation? This water is freezing!"

Ah, the Beachy Love guesthouse. You sleep on the floor, but they built us a bonfire and I felt right at home with that miniature Statue of Liberty.

Last weekend we took an overnight train ride to Mokpo in the South, then a 2 hour ferry ride past some of the 1000 islands that are littered just West of Mokpo, to a tiny island called Hongdo. These islands used to be part of mountain range connected to the peninsula, but when the land shifted, or water rose, only the peaks were left above water. The rocky islands covered in vegitation emerged eerily from the morning mist as we took our ferry ride. Hongdo's population is only 500, but 1000s of people come every weekend to its miniscule (really) town which consists of lots of small hotels and raw fish restaurants. And a church and a school. That's it. It's really beautiful, but it would be a dismal winter.

Besides the beauty, the highlight was probably a dinner at one of the impromptu restaurants on the dock where women sat amongst big plastic bowls of live fish, which you pick out and they would expertly slice for you into sashimi (raw fish, or hwe, as the Koreans call it) right before your eyes. Koreans are much more adventurous than us when it comes to fish consumption, eating weird amorphous things that I didn't even know existed (ie. what we have nicknamed 'sea penis' [sorry mom]). We ate halibut and ray, as well as some none-descript white fish grilled. All good. Best of all, the older Korean gentlemen who was staying at our hotel and came to sit with us and force soju down our throats, paid for it all! It's the Korean way. As his wife kept saying in her limited English: "CEO (pointing to hubby), money, money." Then: "don't marry, ha ha, DON'T MARRY!"(side note: gender roles haven't advanced as quickly as cell-phone technology here)

So, Korea's got a lot of islands and we've really got our work cut out for us. When we aren't planning weekend trips offshore, we're planning our trip to Southeast Asia after our contracts are finished. We're trying to live in the now, which is hard since planning vacation is so much more fun than working in the present, but these islands are really making it easier.

p.s. i will rustle up some photos of our island escapades and post them soon

sorry for the silence

2009-03-28T03:18:00.000-07:00

Just wanted to briefly make an excuse for our very irregular posts and lack of photos. Our computer is still broken, so I'm afraid sitting down and finding time to write a post in the internet cafe has been difficult. Also, I haven't figured out how to download our photos onto a online album from the internet cafe, so no photos yet, but they will come!

We are thinking of all of you and still love getting emails and news from home!

Red Rover's resurgence

2009-03-28T02:45:00.000-07:00

There is nothing like playing with kindergarteners. They are precious. We have short afternoon classes with our kindergarten students and on Fridays I teach the gym class. I used to dread these classes a bit because of how wild the kids were--I basically spent 3/4 of an hour yelling myself hoarse and running around like a madwoman trying to keep 30 5 year-olds from seriously maiming one another.

Fortunately, with the kindy graduation, the 7 boys we called the Wolf Pack have moved on an 8 new and slightly less maniacal children have joined our kindy classes. Now, Gym is like the MOST FUN I HAVE EVER HAD! I spend the rest of the day enjoying the subsequent elation and twittering to anyone that will listen about how awesome our students are. Ryan's been coming in with me for extra support and we do lots of silly stretching and jumping and running with the kids and they're so funny! Some of them can't coordinate a jumping jack and others can't balance on one foot so they fall all over the place and giggle. And then they love to just run around and dance, and a couple always want to hold hands with me, so we'll just hold hands and run around in circles laughing.

The most fun though, has been playing Red Rover. Do you remember it? So much fun. The students actually grasped it really quickly and got really into it. This week, my team was the Strong Rainbow Dragons and Ryan's was the Horse Dragons (dragons obviously being very popular right now). Of course, there is all the normal running and pushing and screaming, but the funniest part is seeing how each kid reacts differently. The most precious little girl in my class named Claire, who is always blissfully calm and sweet, skipped over when the other team called her name and made a very feeble but good-natured attempt to push through the other team's defenses. Then one tiny boy, who I wasn't really sure even understood what the whole point of the game was, dashed over to my team and went right under my arms to get to the other side. It was so funny and clever that I couldn't really scold him for his efforts.

If you have need for a great laugh and some very good fun, Red Rover is really the thing. Of course, just acting like a five year old for a short while will do the job, too.

Good Guys and Bad Guys

2009-03-05T18:33:00.000-08:00

The Korean War. Sometimes, when the class curriculum runs stale, I ask my kids about the war. I ask whose grandparents fought in it, whose parents talk about it, what they learn in school. It is amazing that this is one topic that the kids never get tired of discussing. The other day I asked a class of three above average 6th grade girls to tell me what they know about the history of the war. Surprisingly, they are quite knowledgeable for being early teens, but they understandingly tell a different story than the ones I know. I had them write a short paper on "The good guys and the bad guys in the Korean War." Here they are, completely unedited:

"In the korean war, I think 김구(Kim-Gu), UN, USA, MacCarther were good team but 김일성(Kim Il-Sung), 이승안(Lee Sung-An), USSR, China were bad team. Kim-Gu wanted one goverment in one country so he hated to do 38 line but Lee Sung-An said its ok because he only belived USA and no thinking. USSR and China helped Kim Il-Sung who made North Korea. so they attacked 25th, June 4 o'clock on morning. USA and UN helped SK but in BuSan, MacCather, who can fly with airplane, come to Incheon and fighted with communist so we went up. In that time China came Korea so we made 38 line, which is a cease line." -Anna, 11

"In the Korean war, I think Kim Il-Sung, Russia, Japan are the Bad people because Kim Il-Sung caused the Korean war. He wanted to have South Korea's territory so he caused the war with Soviet Union (Russia). Also, Soviet Union, which is named Russia, persuaded North Korea so they united together. Plus, Japan is the bad guy too, because before the Korean war Japan controlled Korea. Then, suddenly USA did something to Japan so Japan went to their country. Koreans, thought that USA helped Korea. However, USA and RUSSIA fought." -Sandy, 11

"In Korea war there were many countries who spent military to help us, so Korea can exist until now. Russia helped North Korea, who were communist, to support weapons and give military. In our text book, North Korea attack South Korea first, so we had to escape from communistary to Busan. While we were escaping many people died from NK & Russia. Therefore I think NK and Russia were bad and NK, which is communism, is bad. For that reason, NK killed their citizens, they lied to nations and attacked SK first. Also, China is bad too because they support NK while we were won." -Jane, 12

"..who died, and then came back to life, and then died again" and other classroom humor

2009-02-28T17:28:00.000-08:00

Everyday I laugh. My kids, even though they don't realize it, are so funny. In one class there's Brian. He's a tall and skinny 12 year old, who is never shy about offering answers and commentary in class. Unfortunately, Brian is not the sharpest tool in the shed. For over a month, he spelled his name Brain.
Then there's the boy who doesn't understand the rhyming game.
"Cat."
"Bat."
"Hat."
"Shadow."
"No, no," I say. "It has to rhyme." I give some examples. "One more time."
"Sit."
"Hit."
"Fit."
"Bridge."
And that was like the 5th time we'd played that game. Still doesn't get it.
In my favorite class, a class of 11 year olds who don't really have the greatest grammar but can get their point across, my partner teacher, a Canadian named Nicole, and I are constantly the subject of their writing. The stories usually go something like this: A male, American English teacher has a Mad Cow farm, where he raises Mad Cows (There was a mad cow scare here half a year or so ago. Koreans protested to stop American beef from being imported because some sick beef made it here. All the kids got out of it was "American beef, bad.") He gives some of his Mad Cow to a female Canadian English teacher. She gets sick, but doesn't die. So she gives him back some of his own beef, and he dies. The end. Oh yes, and we are learning relative clauses now, so most times the clause is something like: The American English teacher, whose face is ugly... It never gets old to them. I die in at least 50% of their stories. Sometimes twice. America and Ryan Teacher take a beating in those kid's writing.
And finally, there's Harry, in the same class, who maintains to this day that his dad's job is Batman.

romance in korea: sloppy joes and matching outfits

2009-02-15T17:54:00.000-08:00

Ryan and I just celebrated 9 years. Incredible. To celebrate, we headed to a happenin' part of town to try a new Japanese restaurant. Interestingly, I keep telling myself not to try a foreign countries take on another foreign countries food, but unfortunately, I never seem to follow my own advice. Despite the scary plastic model food outside, we ventured in and were seated behind a young Korean couple who were obviously really drunk (about 4 bottles of soju in) and the girl proceeded to cry violently through dinner. That was just the beginning.

The glossy menu they gave us looked incredibly unappetizing, but we felt like we were already hemmed in by the water and appetizers they promptly brought us. We settled on a yummy looking salad with fish and some sort of stew that is cooked at your table with tofu. While salad was alright, but stew ended up being something like Korean sloppy joes made with cubed tofu, a little ground beef and a strange chili tasting soupy sauce. Of course, having a little piece of cheap American food from my childhood while in Korea was a priceless experience, but it wasn't exactly what Ryan and I were looking for.

By Korean standards I'm afraid to say that our relationship looks a bit bland--Ryan doesn't carry my purse and we don't wear matching outfits. That's right, matching outfits. Usually they come in the form of a his and her matching plaid button-down shirt, or hoodie sweaters (called bunny hugs by the Canadians, by the way) with identical, nonsensical English phrases. Last weekend however, was the best. While snowboarding at Pheonix Park, 2 hours from Seoul, we got to see matching snowboarding couples! Koreans like to do all outdoor activities in style (ie. hiking and walking in the requisite black pants and solid-colored fleeces), so everyone, but us, were wearing very expensive and purposefully mismatching and over-sized snowboard gear. One couple had matching sweaters with big stripes of pastel pink, green and yellow. Another had matching red plaid snowboard jackets and pants.

In conclusion, I think this year will be good for Ryan and I. We'll finally learn how to express our love publicly. I'm not sure what the message is exactly. It could be he/she is taken, which you can see from the way we've identically labeled ourselves. Or, it could be, I often loose my partner and the only way I can find them is to look for someone dressed the same as me. Whatever it is, I think it's clear we have a lot to learn from Korea about love.

Here we are, un-coordinated, but loving every minute of it. Ryan is so blissfully happy, he had to close his eyes to savor the moment.

Shopping for Jeensuh

2009-02-15T15:35:00.001-08:00

I had yet another awkward moment due to the language barrier. I went to the mall to shop for some jeans, or as the Koreans call them, Jeensuh. There are all the same brands as back home, mainly designer, like Calvin Klein and Levi's. But there are also a lot of funny "almost brands" such as H & T (not H & M), Ralph Polam (not Ralph Lauren), and Black Face (which could probably go in any number of directions, but I think it resembled North Face). Anyways, I went to the Calvin Klein area because I heard you could get nice American brands for a little less than back home (this turned out not to be true). As soon as you enter any shopping area, an attendant immediately comes to your side. This is not just at the mall, but anywhere. I'm sure that it would be super helpful if I spoke Korean, but since I can't communicate that well, it's sort of awkward having this Korean person silently follow you throughout the store as you shop. So I picked up a pair of jeans and motioned to try them on. Great. He led me to a dressing room. They didn't fit. I tried on another, no luck. I kept having the same problem--the crotch area was too baggy. Anyone that is not taller than 5' 9" or so will know exactly what I'm talking about. So by the third pair my little Korean attendant guy asked me what was wrong. I told him that the waist was fine but the crotch area sagged just a little. Unfortunately, I did so in English and he just looked at me with a blank stare and an empty smile. So I tried to explain it to him in Korean. Unfortunately, I only know about 40 Korean words and "saggy crotch" was not one of them. So all I was able to do was grab the crotch of the pants and say, in Korean, "too big." For some reason, the guy just walked away in disgust like I had something wrong with me. I don't think he understood what I was trying to say.

Suwon Folk Village

2009-02-15T15:21:00.000-08:00

For Lunar New Year, which, I'm afraid to say, was about three weeks ago (sorry), Bethie and I went to Suwon, a traditional folk village. Its a reconstructed village for tourists that shows how Koreans of previous generations lived, something like Sacramento's Sutter's Fort. It was a cold day, but the fresh snow and small children bundled in eskimo suits made it quite enjoyable. We watched a few shows: Korean drumming, an equestrian show with archers and gymnasts, a tight rope walker, and we ate some traditional pork. It was a beautiful time and a great way to break in the new year.

Uncle Tom comes to Korea

2009-02-01T04:50:00.000-08:00

This photo may not be a representation of your understanding of an Uncle Tom, but it is for a Korean...
I was having dinner with a Korean friend and we mentioned Tom Cruise's recent visit to Korea--very big deal. She said that he was so gracious and friendly, and the Korean public loved him so much, that they are calling him "Uncle Tom." I couldn't help but laugh and a rather long-winded and perhaps confusing explanation followed, in which I tried to explain the complications of American racial politics and abolitionist history. Good to know that the tradition lives on.

...and in other Japanese vending machines...

2009-01-11T05:51:00.000-08:00

It seems a little silly to have two posts about the Japanese obsession with vending machines, but to us it truly did seem bizarre and comical. Just a few more observations: First of all, with all the beer vending machines and yes, even whiskey vending machines we saw, we never saw anyway drunk in public and never saw kids crowding around the machines trying to score some booze like you inevitably would in the states.

Second, they had vending machines for other things too. Like real food. Ramen is the equivalent of a quick sandwich in the states. Apparently our semi-fast food is not fast enough for the Japanese, though. They have perfected the ordering and preparation so that a vending machine does half the work. First, outside a restaurant, you pick the type of ramen you would like: soy broth or miso; what toppings you would like: leeks, pork, or egg; and any sides you would like: rice or rice. After you've paid and gotten your ticket from the machine, you wait in line and a waiter takes your ticket and when they are ready to seat you your food is ready, you scarf it down, and then you're out again.

So efficient. Makes you realize just how well the Japanese have adapted to what the west started and just kept on going.

"I'm about a quarter short of a pack of cigarettes"

2009-01-10T01:16:00.000-08:00

Cigarette vending machines...great idea.
Beer vending machines...better idea.
Vending machines with bottles of whiskey...best idea ever!!!

Kimchi, Kimchi, it is good for you and me.

2009-01-10T00:35:00.001-08:00

Here's a food post. It's kind of strange...We just spent a week in Kyoto, home of wonderfully fresh fish, tasty Unagi, not to sweet sweets, and some of the most interesting flavors in the world. But after about a week both Bethie and I had to admit, we missed Korean food. We've grown quite accustomed to bibimbap and galbitang and manduguk and, of course, kimchi.
My favorite is gimbap. It is like a sushi roll without the fish--carrots, a pickled root vegetable, a piece of crab meat (or sometimes, if you're lucky, Spam), sesame leaves, and sometimes canned tuna, wrapped in seaweed and cut into slices. It's usually eaten as a side dish or an appetizer and only costs $2.00 for an entire roll. I find myself eating gimbap everyday, sometimes twice a day. Yummy yummy goodness.

So this is kimchi. It is basically a vegetable that is semi-fermented with different spices. The most common kimchi is made from cabbage (as is the one on the right), but it is not unusual to see it made out of root veggies (like the one on the left). Some are a little spicy, some are a little sweet, some are fresh, some are not so fresh. It is usually served as a side dish/appetizer, and Koreans eat it with every single meal. As you can tell by the almost empty plates, we have developed quite a liking to it.
About a month ago, probably right around the time the temperature really dropped, Korea made it's Kimchi for the next few months. And I mean all of Korea. Bags and bags and, as you can see, literally truckloads of cabbage were mixed with spices and peppers, and placed in beautiful, ceramic kimchi pots throughout the country. Even my boss, Mr. Park, who swears that he never goes into the kitchen, spent a Sunday putting together kimchi with his family.
Here are some kimchi pots. Just about all Korean households have kimchi pots to let their unique kimchi ferment. You can find the pots in backyards, in pantries, in laundry rooms, on roofs, and just about anywhere else you can store a pot.
This dish is called galbitang. It is slow cooked pork ribs in a peppery soup. It is cooked at your table over a stove, and served communally. It is soooo yummy. We eat it at least once every couple of weeks. In fact, it was the very first Korean meal we ate here. It seemed like a strange breakfast when they brought it out to us after we just smiled and nodded at them, but we love it. You leave fat and happy for about $6 a person, including drinks and rice. Bethie says she's glad she started eating meat again. It would of been a shame to miss out on galbitang.

Some Kyoto Photos

2009-01-09T23:55:00.001-08:00

We went on a nice stroll through a neighborhood on the outskirts of the bamboo forest of Arishiyama. Bamboo, oh so nice.

Unagi (eel) Mmm. Barbecued eel is a popular, expensive dish in Kyoto. Bethie and I splurged for lunch one day, and gave it a try. Yummy, yummy. It's a little bit sweet, a little soy salty, a little fishy. Just nice. Mine came with a bowl of eel liver soup which was basically a light broth, a small piece of tofu, and an eel liver, which looked a lot like a human liver, but about the size of a date. The eel liver, in case you were wondering, tasted exactly like you'd think it'd taste. Like the filtration organ of an eel.

Meeting folks from around the world--one of the gems of traveling. This was our little family for one night at a Japanese Ryoken, which is something like a home-style inn. Manami, our Japanese host, cooked a veggie and noodle soup on a grill right in the center of the table. We were joined by Dee and April, a mother and daughter from Northern Australia. April was about 16 years old, and was practicing Japanese, which she is taking in school. The other couple is Francois and Alexandra, a French couple who worked in Spain as teachers, and were enjoying a 2 week holiday in Kyoto. Alexandra is worried about the state of the world, but is hopeful that Mr. Obama will make a difference. Francois loves old American blues and has recently started creating his own classical pieces on the guitar. What a fun night. We spent hours exchanging stories about our own neck of the world.
Have you ever seen references to older actors that do advertising in Japan to make a little extra money? You know, like the film Lost in Translation? Poor Tommy Lee Jones knows what I'm talking about. We saw him on just about every street corner, representing Boss canned coffee. Keep up the good work Mr. Jones.

Monkey tricks...

2009-01-04T02:53:00.000-08:00

One of the most fun attractions in Kyoto--the Iwatayama Monkey Park. Dozens of Japanese monkeys roam the hills of Iwatayama, a small mountain in the Arishiyama area. For a small fee, anyone can roam the grounds with the funny little critters.

So, the reason we look like this monkey is doing something hilarious is because after the man who worked at the park tried unsuccessfully to bribe several monkeys to stay perched on this log so we could get a get photo op, he finally got this one stay and it promptly started to pee off the back side of the stump, which is probably the only reason it stayed put, and also the reason that we started cracking up. You may also notice the guy in the upper left corner of this shot who was practically toppling over laughing as we watched the monkey's little show for us.

Behind us you can see the city of Kyoto, which sits nestled between three mountain ranges that surround it on three sides.

You can see the monkeys, including a baby, scavenging for the grain and sweet potato they are fed three times a day in this clearing, which keeps them coming back for more.

Fraternizing with the locals.

The monkeys can also be fed from inside the "rest room" (no, it's not a big bathroom, just an awkward translation). You can see some monkeys clinging to the cage, begging for the peanuts (literally) that visitors hand-feed them. A bit pathetic.

Don't worry, I'm not illegally feeding it, just saying hello.

Adventures in Kyoto

2009-01-04T00:37:00.000-08:00

So we're back from our big Japanese adventure. We spent the past week weaving through the ins and outs of Kyoto, one of the most beautiful cities we've ever seen. There were wonderfully crafted temples, houses, meals, everything really. Because Kyoto, unlike the rest of Japan, was not destroyed in the war and the city was a political capital for much of Japan's history, there are too many temples and gardens to conquer them all. Most of our time was spent walking, and then walking, and then walking some more through the neighborhoods that we particularly liked.
I would say, overall, the one thing that we learned from Kyoto was that everything, from the way a Bento boxed lunch is intricately packed, to the way a vegetable is sliced and intentionally placed for a meal, can be beautiful. Everything was so nice, so purposeful and pleasing to look at. There were craftsmen (and women) all over the city, putting much time, care, and skill into their woodwork and candies and papers and pottery and every other thing in Kyoto. I've always put more emphasis on utility and value, but both Bethie and I agree that beauty can really make a difference in the feel of something. Kyoto is so beautiful.
Most of the buildings here are so picturesque. This is just outside the main temple at Kiyomiu-dera, which was built in the 8th century. The wood building on the left was being restored while we were there. There were a bunch of old and young carpenters working hard. They appeared to do a lot of the work by hand. The "construction site" didn't look anything like those back home. Oh yes, and the wood. They use wood for everything--inside and out. It makes even the most lavish buildings subtle and welcoming.
An aqueduct, built in the 15th century, on the grounds of the Ginkaku-Ji temple. On either side are lovely gardens.
Bethie in Arashiyama, a really nice (and kind of touristy) area in Western Kyoto. It's full of rich people's houses, bamboo forests, and monkeys. We bought a couple of yummy, veggie filled steam buns, and wandered along the Hozu-gawa river.
Nishiki Market--wonderful (and some not so wonderful) smells. This is their main food market for cooked and prepared foods. So many interesting things--cooked eels, dried fish, tons and tons of different pickled veggies, and sweets--yummy, yummy sweets.
Us in front of the Ginkaku-Ji temple. When we wanted to take this photo, we didn't see anybody who we thought could speak English around us. So I asked this Asian fellow, a young man around our age that we heard speaking Japanese. I showed him the camera and gestured to take a picture of Bethie and I. His response: "Of course, where do you wanna take it?" Turns out, he's Japanese American, raised in the US but visiting family. I think we've been in Korea too long, where the population is so homogeneous that you can tell who speaks English and who speaks Korean by just looking at them. Nothing like home.

Cooking food at your table, perhaps not up to health code, but really good

2008-12-17T04:54:00.000-08:00

So another thing that Korea does really well is let you cook your own food. It's really ingenious. People come to your restaurant and instead of having to cook for them, you give them all the ingredients and they have to do all the work. Brilliant! Why didn't we think of this? Perhaps because I could possibly kill myself with the uncooked meat I am consuming, but no matter, it is really tasty and a great communal meal with friends.
We haven't snapped any photos of Korean BBQ, or galbi, so we'll have to post more on that later, and believe me, it deserves a post to itself. Recently, we discovered a new dish, whose name I can't remember, that entails a light broth cooked over a gas flame in the center of the table. You are given a platter of veggies and thinly slice meat to add to the soup, and when they are cooked to your liking, you eat from the pot. The really cool part though is still to come: around the outside of the pot is a cast iron circle on which more meat cooks. This meat you wrap up in rice paper wrappers with another platter of veggies and then dip in 4 tasty sauces. Amazing!

The second photo is of our friends Chris and Tony and gives you a good view of the pot and cast iron skillet-thing, as well as the arm of our waitress (as a side note--they are so helpful, partially because they think we are incompetent, so they do a lot for us rather than letting us stumble through it ourselves). In the first photo you can see Ryan, being a weirdo like always (don't worry, he hasn't changed), but more importantly, you can see the platter of veggies that go into the wraps with the meat, as well as a few little plates just behind that piled high with kimchi. Yum! (more about Kimchi in further posts)
The crazy part is that the meal didn't end there. After finishing the wraps and the soup, large udon noodles are poured into the remaining broth in the pot. When those are finished, a waitress empties the pot and makes a quick stir fry with egg, rice, and minced vegetables at your table. That's 4 meals all in one!
So who wants to come visit?

our new home

2008-12-10T21:47:00.000-08:00

Hello all. Ryan and I recently moved into a new apartment--one of the perks of Ryan being a manager at school. It's small and cute and, most importantly, warm. Yes, the weather's been plunging down below 0 degrees celsius lately...no fun. Anyway, it is great, with the exception of a few strange idiosyncrasies: our lofted bedroom is only 3.5 feet tall, if we forget in the middle of the night and try to stand up, we'll have quite a headache in the morning.

You may notice that our washing machine in under our stove top. That is efficient use of space...

The Puppy Mobile

2008-12-04T14:54:00.000-08:00

I just thought this was pretty cool.

Standing out....

2008-12-04T03:21:00.000-08:00

A teacher named Chris and I went out for a Korean lunch today. He's a pretty tall fellow, I'd say 6'2" or so, with pasty white skin, a head that glistens after he Bicks it every morning, and a southern drawl. His height and bald head usually attracts a few stares or comments while we are out, but today, as we ate lunch in traditional Korean style, we got more snickers than usual. First of all, traditional Korean meals are eaten sitting pretzel style on the floor on pretty low tables. We must have looked pretty uncomfortable trying to sit pretzel style for over half an hour. After about 5 minutes I wasn't able to sit still and must have resembled one of my five year olds that has to pee but is holding it in. Chris was even more of a spectacle because his knees barely fit under the table and he would bump it every time he moved, making everything on the table shake.
We ordered by picture, a style of ordering that we are becoming quite accustomed but is still full of surprises. Is that egg in there? Does this look like rotten spinach to you? Or, my personal favorite, what the hell is this? Well, today we ordered something that looked like ham soup. The soup that came out was pig, just not the cut I thought it would be. Apparently, hot dogs and Spam are considered traditional Korean food. That's right, we ate hot dog and Spam soup for a Korean lunch. He thought it tasted like on of those Ham Top Ramen packets mixed with soy sauce. I thought it more closely resembled spicy Ketchup in Spam juice. Needless to say, there we were: two white guys in ties, terribly uncomfortable, fumbling our way through our hot dog and Spam soup.
But that wasn't the worst part. As we were laughing about our situation (and the people around were laughing at us), Chris happened to spill a spoonful on his bright white shirt. Since costumer service is incredible here, the tiny and ancient Korean waitress immediately came out with a hot towel and started rubbing him like a mother trying to clean a child's face. Another younger waitress followed suit, this time bringing out two adult size bibs for Chris and I. They insisted that we put them on, which in itself attracted the attention of the restaurant. So there we were, two white guys with shaved heads in white shirt and ties, eating hot dog and Spam soup, fidgeting like 5 year olds, wearing adult sized bibs. Man o man, I love this country.

A few photos...

2008-12-01T04:50:00.001-08:00

We haven't posted any photos in a while. Here are a few random shots from the past couple of weekends.

A really cool indoor market in a little neighborhood called Insadong. There are blocks and blocks of vendors selling goods, veggies, fish, and lots of cooked food. There's hustle and bustle everywhere, some friendly folks, and some not so friendly. Take a look at the lady that is pointing at us. Seconds after this photo was taken, she proceeded to shoo us away from the area like pests.
Lots and lots of street food in Seoul. Beth's favorites, or rather the favorite of Beth's sweet tooth, are these pancake like desserts filled with cinnamon, sugar, and pure yumminess!
Edge! Here's our neighborhood mascot, Edge. He's a real tough guy, always barking at passerbys. That's until the weather gets too cold and he shivers and whimpers and his owner puts him inside the store window. And then, back to barking!
A cool building in the Jonggak subway station. There's tons of cool buildings all around Seoul. It's a pretty modern city.
We're having a blast!

Being thankful with what'cha got...

2008-11-29T16:48:00.001-08:00

Thanksgiving in Korea, for some reason, does not always go as smoothly as in the States. First of all, nobody has a clue what a turkey even is around here. Secondly, ovens are few and far between. And there aren't any cranberries. And our bosses could care less if it is a big holiday in the States, we had to work a full day. Regardless of these minor setbacks, we had a hell'ova Thanksgiving. A roast baked in a toaster oven, Minnesota mashed potatoes (which tasted a lot like California mashed potatoes), stove-topped stuffing with few seasonings, a bachelor's steamed veggies (which, being one of the only things he's ever cooked besides Mac & Cheese, did not include any seasonings, but was just plain carrots and cauliflower), some Kiwi pork (which is not the fruit, but pork made by a New Zealander), ridiculously overpriced cheese, lots of cheap wine, and a really cool group of folks from all over the world. What more could ya' ask for?
That said, we missed watching football, stuffing ourselves with turkey, taking a nap, and hanging out with family.
How was your Thanksgiving?

Jinjilbongs: Gettin' Naked with the Locals

2008-11-19T15:45:00.000-08:00

If Ryan and I could live in a country with all the best aspects of the places we travel, we would definitely institute the siesta from Spain and those little enchiladas from Nicaragua, but right now, my number one pick is the Jinjilbong: Korean bath houses. Just about every Korean frequents the bath house at least once a week. Men and women are separated, given baggy clothes to wear after they bathe, and then everyone gets naked and gets real clean!! It's amazing! Why don't we have this in the states?
If you aren't sold yet, let me elaborate: first you head into the shower and bath room where you scrub yourself clean, brush your teeth, wash your hair, etc, etc. Then you head over to the various baths--warm, hot, really hot, cold, massage tub, dumping-water-on-your-head tub; each bath with different medicinal additions: mugwort, jade, charcoal, salt. After you are done scrubbing and soaking you can sit in various saunas and steam rooms, then put on the clothes they've given you and enjoy the restaurants, internet cafe, play room, gym, massage chairs, real massages and more saunas. Once you've had your fill, take a nap on one of the coed floors, or go to the single gender sleeping room where everything is dark and warm and you can sleep on a pad with a sort-or-pillow. When I say, take a nap on the floor, I mean: take a nap anywhere on the floor. There are folks passed out on the floor by the water cooler. Men face-up, mouths-open in the children's play room. It's a little weird, but you've got to understand, you have never been so relaxed as you are after spending an hour and a half soaking in the jade bath. Trust me, you could sleep anywhere.
Yes, you do have to be naked, but when everyone else around you is doing it, why not? It's great to be uninhibited. I don't get anymore stares than is normal here (which is a few), but for the most part, it's very comfortable. There's the two old ajumas (older, married and respected women) scrubbing eachother down with exfoliating cloths, the girls splashing around in the cold pool, and the teenage girls washing their hair in the shower. They're all there. Bet you're wishing you were too...

p.s. sorry no photos to offer. you understand.

Talking smack in Korean

2008-11-17T15:25:00.000-08:00

Bethie and I split up for the weekend. She headed to a mountain outside of Seoul, while I went on a hike with a few of the guys from work, including our two Korean bosses. Here in Korea there is still a pretty strong separation of genders, so it's pretty common for a bunch of guys from work to hang out and for the ladies to do their own thing as well. In the States we often see couples or mixed groups. Here, there's a lot of groups of just men or women, all usually around the same age.
So off we went, hiking up a beautiful mountain with a Buddhist Temple at the peak set as our destination. When we first started to hike, our bosses took off, almost running. All of us Americans were like "Wha?!" After about a minute I turned to Tony, an ex-wrestler (who is in awesome shape) from Minnisota and said, "I can't go like this the whole way, I'm not going to make it." He said, "me neither." At that point our bosses, Mr. Jung and Mr. Park, turned around and started laughing at us. They just wanted to mess with us. "Oh, it's on now."
At the top was a really nice Buddhist Temple with a service going. Quite interesting to watch. Lots of folks, we were told, make the hikes up the mountains on the weekends to pray or meditate for a while. These were all normal looking people along with monks. The monk's chants were projected on a loudspeaker, so it felt very serene and spiritual. That was until we found a small sign in the back. It was a label of an historical site, written in English and Korean, that said that in this spot two rocks took the shapes of the male and female genitalia and represent reproduction. So just out of view of the service going on, and with the chanting in the background, I very respectfully whispered to the guys, "Hey, you gotta come help me find some rocks that look like a penis and vagina!" The cool thing was, our Korean bosses thought it was hilarious. Here we were, 2 older Koreans and a few young white guys, wandering around the backyard of a Buddhist temple, with chanting in the background, looking for rocks that looked like genitals. When we couldn't find the female we were starting to wonder if the monks that found these rocks had been abstinent for a little too long. But finally, "Ahhhh!" I hear, which is the Korean version of "Aha." My boss had found it. We all high fived, giggled a little, and were on our way.
A little later, we found a little perch and set up to eat. Mr. Park brought out a tupperwear with some nice sandwiches, kimbap, which is like Korean Sushi, some wine, chopsticks, napkins, plastic cups, the whole setup. I said something like, "Wow Mr. Park, this is really nice. Did you make it?" Seemingly harmless, but immediatly he turned pretty red with embarrassement, and Mr. Jung burst out into uncontrolable laughter. None of the Americans understood what was really going on. Mr. Jung, in his laughter, said something to Mr. Park in Korean, and then told us "Men don't do that in Korea." He went on to tell us that men in Korea, especially from their generation, don't even go into the kitchen because "that's the women's job." Men go to work, women work at home. That's the way it is. He also told us that asking quesitons like that is how men banter with eachother. Mr. Jung thought it was so funny becuase we were surrounded by a bunch of other male hikers, and they also laughed when they heard a young white guy capping on his boss. Mr. Park said that he didn't feel disrespected, he just didn't see it coming. That's right Mr. Park. Take that.
Monday morning, as Beth and I had just arrived at school and were unloading our lunches, Mr. Park came to greet us. In broken English, "Good morning. Oh, that looks like a very nice lunch you have there Beth. Did Ryan make it for you?" He looked at me, smirked, and walked into his office.
It is so on.
-Ryan

seeing democracy in action just isn't the same from across the pacific: a partisan post

2008-11-12T19:00:00.000-08:00

I really underestimated how sad it would be to be out of the country for the election. I mean, don't get me wrong, it has been the most inspiring and memorable experience of my political life, but that is exactly why seeing democracy in action from across the ocean just isn't the same. I think I totally underestimated how affecting the election would be because I'm a cynic when it comes to our political system. I was really scared that Obama would lose and we'd have another 8 years of the same policies, so I was kind of expecting to never want to come back to the states ever again and thought I would be laughing at everyone who was still stuck there with another 8 years of republican leadership.

So, as it turns out, the jokes on me. This is perhaps the first time in my life (but hopefully not the last) that I am proud of my country and want to go home to celebrate with my fellow Americans. I'm pretty sure I will never be running for a national office, or married to anyone doing so, so I'm not afraid to say that. Anyway, I was so excited that I wanted to have people down in the streets knocking pots and pans together like they did in DC and San Francisco and NY and everywhere. Instead, everyone went about their business and the Americans here gave eachother high fives and got drunk. Not the same. I wished for a moment that I was teaching English in Kenya. How awesome would that have been?

Missing you all. And missing America a bit more than expected.
love,
beth

What I'd do for a Rubicon burger...

2008-11-09T03:11:00.000-08:00

We've been doing a lot of wandering (and wondering) lately. In such a big city, it's easy to get a little lonely and do a lot of thinking. Most people that have been in Korea for bit say that you hit a bit of a slump after a couple of months or so, and I think that I may be hitting it. I think I realized it the other day when I was hanging out with one of the teachers from our school, an Afrikaner fellow from South Africa named Stephan. We were watching the Colbert Report, and I was trying to explain to him why it was so damn funny. But he didn't get it at all. He didn't understand most of the punchlines, let alone the little nuances that make Colbert so funny. It made me kind of miss home--my friends and family and, well, Americans that get other American's humor.
I don't want to give the impression that I'm depressed or sad. We've both made a bunch of pretty good friends and are really enjoying our time here. I guess I'm just trying to say that I miss burritos and the Rubicon and brewing beer and Sargeant's coffee and the farm and our porch and the people we love.
-Ryan

Feel Your Imagenation at Seoul Tower

2008-11-06T05:42:00.001-08:00

I realized that Ryan didn't post all the really awesome pictures from the top of N'Seoul Tower, a needle-like structure that sits on top of a large wooded hill in the middle of Seoul. From the lookout deck you realize just how remarkably massive Seoul is. The brochure, however, is not so awe-inspiring. You'd think one of the most popular attractions in Seoul would have had a native English speaker check their copy. Feel Your Imagenation at Seoul Tower? N'Seoul Tower's Events: A Joyful Happiness? These are the little things that I love to discover every day. Regardless of the spelling mishaps, it was a breathtaking view.

Looking homeward from Seoul. Only 5,600 miles away.

Herrrooo! Can anybody here me up there?!

2008-11-03T02:50:00.000-08:00

On Saturday we headed north to Ganghwado island, the northernmost tip of South Korea. We hiked to the highest point we could find, a nice little climb called Bongcheon-san, and looked to the north. We squinted to see as far as the air would let us, and in the distance, just past the Han River, we made out a small piece of the Axis of Evil: the Democratic People's Republic of North Korea.
Our guidebook purported that on clear days, you can see a large billboard which reads, in impolite Korean, "America, go home!" And sometimes, if you're lucky, you can even hear a loudspeaker broadcasting propaganda about the good life in the North (Herrrroo!). Unfortunately for Kim Jong Il, his plan will never work. South Korea's air is too damn hazy to see across the Han most of the time. Blast, foiled again!!!
The town to the bottom left is Hajeom, a cute little farming town (although we did notice quite a few dog kennels there...hmmm...dog soup anyone?) If you look just to the right of the big mountain past Hajeom, you can see the slightest outline of a mountain. That, my friends, is Kim Jong Il's backyard. Can you just hear the propaganda?
A run down lookout tower. There were a lot of military bases in the towns on the way to the island, so North-South tensions are definitely felt in the area.
Beth and I doing what we do best, defending freedom. Go America!

Sight seein' in Seoul

2008-11-03T02:01:00.000-08:00

It's been about a month, and we finally decided to do the tourist thing. We ventured into Seoul, the capitol, cameras and guidebooks in hand. As we got closer and closer to the tourist center--a beautiful mix of ancient palaces, modern government and business buildings, and hundreds of posh shops--we noticed more English, higher prices, and more and more foreigners. To tell you the truth, it was actually kind of nice to talk to people that understood you a little better, and to meet many people in a similar situation to your own. Don't get me wrong--I love being stared at by every set of eyes when I walk into a restaurant or when a store clerk laughs at the way I say something--it was just nice to see that we're not the only ones.
The areas of the city we enjoyed were quite beautiful. The city is a nice compromise between concrete and glass, and green trees and running water. A tour guide at the palace we visited, told us it's the Korean "Feng Shui" that makes the city so nice. It's probably true. I mean, we were in the heart of a city that has over 20 million people in it, and we really didn't feel suffocated. We were able to spend some time at Changdeokgung palace, where the royal family lived in the 19th century, and then we went on a nice walk up a nearby mountain to a lookout point over the city. Here are some pics.

This is a typical street in the neighborhood we wandered through. There were lots of street vendors, selling everything from binoculars and belt buckles to live squid.

Just look at how much fun I'm having!

This palace is famous for a large garden, called the Secret Garden, and this is the beginning of it. It is so beautiful right now with all the Japanese Maples turning colors for the fall. When the royal family lived here, you were only allowed into the Secret Garden by special permission of the king. One of the kings loved to fish, so he had this tiny little pond put in the palace and stocked the hell out of it. Sounds like something grandpa Chuck would do.

Do we look like tourists?

She's beautiful, isn't she? So is the building behind her. It was built by a prince as a place to keep his concubines.

Happy Holloween (Korean Edition)

2008-11-01T05:38:00.000-07:00

Happy Halloween from Korea! While most of Korea spent the day unsuspecting, we threw a Halloween party at LCI Academy with our kindy classes. Each teacher had an activity in their room and all kindy students visited each room in stations. Here's a peek at the spooky happenings...

Neptune and Dean making felt pumpkins in Ryan's classroom. These boys are angelic.
Me with my class. Not so angelic, but very cute nonetheless. And looking very scary. Daniel (second from left), although he is holding a pitchfork, is Harry Potter and Kate kept covering her face with her cape like Count Dracula.
Hope, a truly wild child. Nothing else can be said, except that, as you can see, face painting was another activity.

And in my classroom...the Thriller dance. Too funny. As you might suspect, getting 4 and 5 year olds to do the Thriller dance had mixed results, but it's really cute nonetheless. I was a little scared of making somone cry watching the music video, so I only let them see segments. We tried to teach them the zombie-claw walk and the crouched zombie stomp, as I like to call them. Maybe you'll recognize it, maybe not. And, in case you haven't seen the video for a while, check it out (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AtyJbIOZjS8), it's immortal.
love,
beth

Lost in translation..

2008-10-28T18:12:00.000-07:00

A quick note: the kids provide a lot of funny translations. One of the kids told another teacher "Stomach out, stomach out." Two seconds later he threw up all over the classroom. A couple of days ago my kids asked what the English word for "poo air" is, which is a huge joke in what seems to be all of Korea. And yesterday they asked for my favorite translation: "What is the word for 'water poo'?"

Hiking Gyeryong National Park

2008-10-27T05:49:00.000-07:00

After a month in the city, we finally made our way into the countryside. The fall colors are starting to show here and there, so we headed to Gyeryong-San National Park for a weekend of hiking and relaxation. The park is basically one big mountain full of Buddhist temples and hiking trails. The scenery was picturesque, the weather was beautiful, and the setting peaceful. We hiked for hours on Saturday, completely hiking up one side of the mountain and down the other, to finally reach the quaint but beautiful Gap-sa temple. Throughout the week the temple is still in use for young Buddhists, on the weekend it turns into a tourist filled festival (although only Korean tourists--we did not see any other foreigners all weekend). While many of the trees were still green, those that had changed were absolutely brilliant. And the persimmons, Oh! the persimmons. The trees were ripe and beautiful and covered the Buddhist compound. On Sunday we enjoyed a book in the shade, a persimmon, had a nap, and discussed how lucky we are.

Some of the Kindy kids...

2008-10-22T06:34:00.000-07:00

Two weeks a month we teach the kindergartners, or kindies. Last February, many of them came to school not knowing a lick of English. And, unfortunately, most of the teachers knew just as much Korean. But these kids are amazing. Today they know their alphabet and over 100 common words. They can form short sentences. They know the days, months, seasons, holidays, foods, and, their favorite, animals. But most importantly, these kids, after just 6 months of English school, can effectively communicate in English. I never thought I would like spending so much time with little ones--God knows they can be a handful at times--but teaching youngsters will truly make this trip worth it.
The other day one of my kids, a stubborn girl named Jennifer, was in the corner becuase she would not color with the other kids. I asked her many times if she wanted to participate (yes, they understand what the word participate means) and, being as stubborn as she is, repeatedly said no. After a few minutes, Blake, the quiet and smart one, asked me if he could talk to Jennifer. He walked over to her in the corner and, in English, said caringly, "Come color with us Jennifer. It's okay." She slowly made her way to the table and colored with the rest of the class. Blake is only 4 years old, but for some reason, he knew how to approach Jennifer better than I did. Little moments like this make kids such a joy to be around. I love it.
So here are a few photos of the kids.
-ryan

Renegade Gardens, part 1

2008-10-21T19:07:00.000-07:00

Ryan and I were surprised to find renegade gardens in any open space in a suburb of Busan in the South called Gimhae. I have yet to take photos of the gardens in Incheon, where we live, but it is clear that Koreans love their renegade gardens. True, I don't know anything about them and I certainly don't know enough Korean to ask, but they look pretty rebellious to me. We usually find them in deserted plots, or the space between the street and a fence. There are also small gardens on rooftops and balconies. These small food plots are a patchwork of vegetables, leafy greens and lots of red chilie peppers. We've been able to buy a few items from these little growers on Sunday mornings when they sell their products in a local park. That's great because otherwise a lot of stuff has to be bought at Lotte Mart (worthy of a blog by itself), or Korean Walmart-on-steroids.

My first theory is that with Korea's lightning-fast industrialization and globalization, there are still many people over 50 that remember the time following the Korean War when food was scarce and family vegetable plots were vital to survival. I'm still waiting to see the kids out there. Put them to work I say. I'll keep lookin.
-beth

Coffee...mmmm........

2008-10-19T18:33:00.000-07:00

There isn't much good coffee here, mainly instant mixes, which we have not quite grown accustomed to. So on our way to school the other day we stopped into a western looking shop to grab an Americano. And what did we find? A travel coffee mug with a heart and the word
"Sacramento" under it. What a small world.

Teachin' English

2008-10-19T18:22:00.000-07:00

Teaching English is hard to do. ABCDEF... to the little ones this is simple enough, but try explaining to the older kids why read (present tense) and read (past tense) are spelled the same but spoken differently. How is a child supposed to sound out the word Wednesday? Too often we just have to say "that's just the way it is."
One of the gems of teaching English to kids is learning bad words in Korean. Every now and then somebody in class will say something in Korean which everyone finds hysterical. I usually ask the kid what he just said, but that rarely gets a response, so I head straight for the teacher's pet (its kind of ironic that in 2 of my classes, the teacher's pet is named Ryan...haha). A few days ago I learned the words "shut up," "stupid," and, my favorite, "fart master." Sweet. Now I know 10 words in Korean.

2008-10-19T06:28:00.000-07:00

Here are a few photos from the past few weeks. One is of me giving the victory dance after completing our first week of school. The other three are of our trip to a city called Pusan (or Busan) on the southern coast. There was an international film festival so we watched a bunch of movies from around the world. There were outdoor and indoor theaters, one of which was right on the water. Pusan is a beautiful city, especially after hanging out in our neighborhood of Incheon where everything seems kind of grimy. I think we spotted some movie stars, but we really didn't know the difference. -Ryan

black tofu is not black tofu

2008-10-19T03:08:00.001-07:00

If you are traveling to a foreign country whose language you do not speak, I advise being very open to new cuisines. In fact, you must be open to complete mystery. Ryan and I have become accustomed to smiling and nodding a lot when we go to a restaurant and don't understand any of the dishes on the menu we are familiar with. With the smile and nod we are hoping to convey: "we do not understand you, please bring us something you think is good." Fortunately, this has gone surprisingly well. For the most part, Korean food is made up of rice, noddles, and soups with lots of red chili sauces, vegetables and meat.
The only problem comes with strange additions to these simple bases. This of course is only strange to an American who is not accustomed to squid and octopus tentacles, dried fish jerky and silk worm larvae.
Often a safer bet is to point at another customers food that looks appetizing and again smile and nod. Ryan and I got a tasty boiling soup one morning for breakfast with lots of vegetables and something that looked very much like black tofu floating at the bottom. "It must be some sort of tofu made from a different bean," Ryan said. I didn't think so. Tasted bloody. After a nice conversation of broken English with a man seated next to us after finishing our soup, we asked him what it was. Oxen bladder. That's right. Oxen bladder.
Not so bad actually, but next time I might say "anyo" to the black tofu.

Where's the Red Bull?

2008-09-30T21:35:00.000-07:00

A quick lesson about quickie mart drinks in Korea: Koreans are not deceptive when naming. If it is called Pine Tree Drink, it tastes like a pine tree. If it is called Cinnimin Ginseng, it tastes like cinnimin ginseng, which, surprisingly, is as bad as it sounds (it tastes like dirty raisins). I miss the ambiguous American names like Red Bull and Rockstar. But I guess if those drinks were in Korea they would be called Synthetic Piss or Plastic Cotton Candy. Well, I'm off to try some Fish Onion Drink. Annyongi Kayseyo.

Goodbye, dear friends

2008-09-30T21:27:00.000-07:00

Hello, dear friends. Afer finishing school and becoming responsible citizens in the American work force, we've decided that it was time to put off real life a little longer. We're too young for such things, and if we wanted to travel, this was the time to do. So we've sold all our belongings, packed up, and hopped a flight to South Korea.

For the next year we will be living and teaching English in Incheon, South Korea, an hour outside of Seoul. Our neighborhood is called Yeonsu-dong, and our school is LCI Academy. We'll be teaching kindergarten to 13 years old. We are also living in a 3 bedroom apartment, so if anyone wants to travel...

Hope all are well. We'll keep you posted.

beth and ryan